Home Again.

I have been home now for a few days. I haven't journaled at all which makes me feel like a failure. But I have baked a lot! Pumpkin pie, Magic Bars, Breakfast...yummy. I missed cooking.

It's so weird to be home. It's really cold, for one. And it's exhausting. I have been having incredible spurts of energy that last a few hours (usually when I'm seeing someone I haven't seen in 4 months) and then I crash and feel like I'm going to fall over. So far, I've been able to time the crashes with being close to my parents couch. This is good.

I feel incredibly blessed to have such amazing people who want to see me despite my roller coaster of emotions and energy. I'm grateful.

I think about Ghana all the time. I'm reminded of people, conversations, and experiences every few minutes. All this thinking makes me tired.

While thinking is overbearing at times, answering people's questions is easier than I thought it would be. I guess I generally don't have a hard time talking... :)

Remember when I felt really unproductive in Ghana and felt like I only accomplished one thing per day? Well, that seemed to follow me back here. It seems like I do nothing all day but I'm still exhausted by the end. Next semester is going to kill me if it keeps going at this pace. The United States doesn't like this pace even though I'm used to it...ah!

Trying to take this cultural readjustment day by day!

Love you all.

Quick Update

Free travel was amazing. I spent a full week in Ada Foah, a little fishing town in South East Ghana. We stayed at Maranatha, a little beach camp--accesed by wooden canoe--on a sandy point. All of the proceeds of this beach camp go to the community that is situated directly besdie it. About 750 people live in the community and about half are children. Our money mostly goes to continuing to build a school that was set up 3 years ago becuase of this beach camp.

It was breathtaking and peaceful. On one side of our palm-branch-walled, thatched-roofed, sandy-floored beach hut was the wavy Gulf of Guinea and on the other side was the calm, fresh Volta River. They met at the end of the point and we walked all the way around every day. We swam, built sand castles, had heart to hearts, skinny dipped, walked, played, read, and basked in the sun. It was beautiful, relaxing, and a great time to reflect. I love Ghana and I love beaches.

On Thanksgiving, our whole group met at Maranatha for a wonderful evening of food, reflection, love-bucket-filling (A tradition our group has done throughout the semester where we go around the circle and tell one person what we love about them. It was my turn on Friday morning and truly made my bucket overflow with love.), and fellowship. We had cokolokos--local rum, coconut milk straight out of the coconut, and Coke. The staff caught wind of our holiday and group renion and made us a bonfire. We enjoyed being together so much. I was ever thankful that day. For the fact that I'll see family and friends so soon. For the amazing trip that is now almost finished. For the way Ghana has changed me because of it's beautiful people, culture, and land.

It was so odd to come back to campus after truly "roughing it" for a week. I got used to having no running water, electricity, sink or toilet. I got used to bathing in a river. I got used to being awake when the sun was awake. I got used to eating only three little meals a day (no snacks) and drinking liters and liters of water.

A complete difference from ISH which is a complete difference from where I will be on Thursday--home.

When we got back to campus, ISH looked like it had been repainted, my bed was incredibly comfortable, the shower seemed squeaky clean. I hadn't looked in a mirror for a week and that was really weird too. I am tan and blonde and skinnier. Eating on a budget and endless beach walks will do that to you.

I am so grateful for this semester. So much so that I feel torn or ripped or just strange. I can't start saying goodbye yet, but I'm thinking about it all the time. Part of me is ready to leave now. Another part of me is dreading that last day. I'm trying to enjoy every last moment of being in Ghana. And I'm stressing the fact that my bags will undoubtedly be overweight on the way home. Ah!

More when I get home...

A Wonderful Weekend

A few days ago, on Friday, I had the best day.

Grace, Miranda, Anica and I got on tro tros after breakfast to downtown Accra. We met a really nice dude from Wisconsin (random!) on the trotro! It was a super hot sunny day and we spent it exploring and gallivanting all over the colorful, busy city. Bumming around with my girlies made me very excited for free travel in a few days. We're gonna have such a wonderful time.

First we went to the Cultural Center--a touristy market with all kinds of art, fabric, drums, crafts, jewelry, etc. We had fun finishing our Christmas shopping and bargaining with everyone and thier brother.
Exciting purchases of the day (that aren't gifts, I can't give away the other things I bought):
--A really great djembe bag!
--A rattle like instrument (the first instrument in Ghana, before the drum) that you play in your hand. It helps develop polyrhythm and I LOVE practicing. :)
--A Ghanaian painting (I had yet to purchase one since I've been making my own!)

We met up with some friends (Amy and Naomi) and then tro troed over to Osu for a delicious smoothie/chicken wrap lunch. Very infrequently do I eat food like that!

Then we took another tro tro to "Circle" (a huge and busy roundabout in Accra) and went to the post office to pick up a mysterious package. I was notified that I had a package over a week ago but because of exams and the hours the post office was open, I couldn't go pick it up until Friday. I had no idea who it was from...

When they brought it out from the back room, I freaked out becuase it was HUGE. I ripped it open while the lady behind the counter stared at me like I was crazy :)

Here are the contents of my package! (P.S. I did most of the paintings on the wall while I've been in Ghana!)

Otherwise known as heavenly joy. My CICW friends sent me love in a package!! I have the best job EVER. Candy, cookies, Cheez-its, candy, the Chimes, tea, EASY MAC, candy, a CD, candy, and the nicest notes of encouragement were inside. I think the packing slip said it was 5 pounds worth of snacks. HA! I don't think I stopped smiling for hours. I feel so loved and valued. AND I LOVE M & Ms!

Me, Grace, and Sneeky. SO EXCITED! (Notice the Chimes. One of my friends was so excited that she wanted to cut out articles to keep!)

Let's just say that in the course of two days, my friends and I did a number on the contents of the package. I think we've eaten at least half of what was in there. And it was a lot. We didn't eat the letters, surprisingly. This junk food has soothed my soul. Oh, and I think everyone in our group has read the Chimes already (and eaten the Skittles). We have just been giddy about this package!

CICW--THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!

Anyway, back to Friday night. When we got back, exhausted and experiencing sugar highs from Twizzlers, we got ready for an evening of fun to follow-up our day of fun.

Miranda's roommate Seguah organized a "quinciple" (Grace's way of saying quadruple for the number five) date to a Ghanaian movie (called A Sting in a Tale) premier on campus. All the girls had to find dates. We basically took all of our close guy friends which made it so much fun. The movie was so weird but incredibly entertaining. It could probably be categorized as a dramatic comedy? With a little horror and romance tossed in. All the main characters ended up as ghosts by the end. But it was so fun to see scenes filmed in chop bars and houses like we've seen all over Ghana! So great.

Nana Addo and Miranda, Benjamin and Seguah (Boys don't smile much for pictures in Ghana. They're actually very happy people even if they look angry in the pictures!)

Me and Jibro, Yonni and Grace (Anica and Daniel came a few mintues later). Jibro and Yonni are roommates in ISH and live right above us! Such great guys.

While I'm talking about my friends in Ghana, I'll show you more pictures of people I love.

This is Anica, Samuel (Papa 70 is his nickname, I don't think I've ever called him Samuel!), and me. Papa 70 has the best laugh of anyone I know. I can hear him laughing from across campus :)

THIS IS GENEVIEVE!!!! I know you've all been dying to see her beautiful face. Here it is! She is the best roommate I could have asked for and I'm so grateful for her. I will miss her too much. When I come back to Ghana, it will be for her wedding day, whenever that is!

Yesterday, Saturday, I was creative and lazy all day. I sewed patches of fabric onto my djembe case and watched Gilmore Girls. In the evening, our whole group got together in my room and watched Love Actually (I've actually already watched in twice already since being here). This means that Christmas time is here!! I love that movie so much and could watch it over and over.

Because LOVE ACTUALLY IS ALL AROUND. It's here in Ghana. It's at home. It's all over the world!

The scenes in the beginning and the end of the movie (at the arrivals gate at the airport) made me tear up in anticipation of hugging all my Ghanaian loved ones goodbye and all of my American loved ones hello. It's gonna be so bittersweet. I am blessed.

(P.S. I'll blog all I can, but tomorrow until Wednesday our group is going to Kumasi. Then Friday until the next Friday, Miranda, Grace, Anica, and I are going to Ada Foah for free travel!! The adventure continues!)

School's Out for Summer

Today was our last day studying at the University of Ghana. My exams have been taken, my papers have been turned in, and I walked out of the building glowing like it was summer break. FREEDOM!

The fact that our last drumming class was today makes me very sad. I have loved learning to play the djembe in every way. My ability to feel and create polyrhythm is ever improving and developing. Exciting!

Miranda, Christopher (one of our dance instructors), Christopher (our drumming teacher who is apparently drumming on my head), Me and Gracie!

My excitement after drumming class turned to concern when I realized how just how little time I have left in this beautiful country. We leave in less than three weeks.

Our group celebrated the end of our hectic week with Castle Beer and Curried Vegetables at Tyme Out, an outdoor restaurant/bar on campus that we discovered in our first month in Ghana and then forgot about.

Tyme Out!

After dinner we went to a benefit concert on campus in an outdoor venue at the dance studio. A few different bands made up of both Ghanaians and Obrunis (foreigners) played music for us to enjoy. The second band played had guitars, drums, piano, and SAXOPHONES!


Listening to talented alto and tenor saxophones under the cloudy night sky in Ghana was wonderful. Annica was a happy camper (crappy hamper?). I contemplated finding the saxophonist after the show and asking him if I could touch his saxophone. I thought better of it, but I wanted to hold that gold piece of goodness so bad!

When I got back to my dorm, I got sad again because I felt a strong desire to go home. I just keep going back and forth. It’s really strange. I really miss my parents, sister, and friends. I have never been away from home this long and I’m beginning to feel needy for those I love in Grand Rapids/Miami/Wichita Falls/Portland/Choma/Gallup. Is this what homesickness feels like? It’s a really strange, torn feeling.

Now I shall give you a feel for how well my friends here know me in the short time we’ve been together. Back at the dorm, as soon as I got the sad feeling inside, though I said nothing, Miranda gave me a hug and said “you need a hug don’t you.” “Yes, yes I do.” Genevieve immediately followed with “you miss your daddy don’t you.” “Yes, yes I do.” Genevieve, my dear roommate who I will miss so much, jokingly gives me grief about missing my mom and my dad. Her dad died when she was young and obviously has a much stronger relationship with her mom. Actually, most Ghanaians are closer to their moms because most Ghanaian women stay home with the children and Ghanaian men work full time. Anyway, she thinks it is funny that I miss my parents equally ☺.

I want to live in the moment here. The next three weeks will be gone before I know it. I don’t want to spend my time dwelling on my desire and my dread of getting on that plane.

Please pray that I always see the cup half full in these next weeks.

Sodom and Gommorah

Oops. I forgot for a few days to update my blog.

Currently, I am trying to do some research. However, I am extremely warm, limp, and sticky and am having trouble concentrating (obviously). It is finally cooling down since the sun has set (it's 6:30pm). May I remind you that "cool" means it is only 83 degrees F with 75% humidity. Michigan's cold is gonna kill me if this heat doesn't. Oh, extremes.

Anyway, I'm writing a paper about the biggest slum in Accra. It is called Sodom and Gommorah. Currently, the Accra Municipal Area is trying to evict the 400,000+ people who live in the small area. Yeah right people. I'll give you a few links to articles that I found interesting. It's a terrible situation really, but I'm pretty sure evicting 400,000 people by force ain't gonna work very well peeps.

Photos of Sodom and Gommorah:



When I have a conclusion (or "clunclusion" as I like to say), I shall enlighten you.

Peace!

Articles to Check Out:

http://www.ghanaweb.com/GhanaHomePage/NewsArchive/artikel.php?ID=28249

http://www.newsfromafrica.org/newsfromafrica/articles/art_827.html

http://www.theghanaianjournal.com/2009/10/21/decongesting-sodom-gomorrah-must-be-done-properly/

A School Visit and a Good Movie

Yesterday was our last day of class. Weird. Time for exams, papers, etc. Slash procrastination.

Today, our group went to Ga West, a sister city to Grand Rapids. We looked specifically at their school system and visited a number of different primary schools and junior high schools.

This is a typical (less crowded) classroom in the public Primary Schools in Southern Ghana.

We had a great time mingling with kids, asking them about their favorite subjects, answering questions about America, and being interested in their lives. In each classroom the man who was leading our group from school to school would yell "TIME TO GO!" after five minutes of interaction. It really started to bother me that we waltzed into these classrooms, spent five minutes with children and teenagers who we were genuinely interested in getting to know, and then got up and left them mid-conversation. I sort of felt ripped out of the room every time. Not a good feeling.

Immanuel, the boy crossing his arms in the front was incredibly smart and outspoken. I loved talking to him!

This evening, my friends and I went to see a movie at the mall. (It is a brand new mall...the only one in Ghana and is just like Woodland. Smaller, but similar. The movie theater upstairs is just like Celebration. It even has the psychodelic carpet.)

Seeing a movie here is like a vacation from Ghana--a two hour break. And, it is sometimes much needed for my sanity. I'm not sure if that is good or bad, but it is true.

We saw Julie and Julia--a wonderful movie all about the joy of food and the importance of loving relationships. It not only made me want to get married and live with my husband in an adorable loft apartment with a cute kitchen, but it made we want to eat food from home. Mom, Dad, and friends, go see this movie. You will love it.

I'm tired and am going to bed. While I'm on this subject, I suppose I'll inform you that I am exhausted most of the time here in Ghana. I don't really ever sleep straight through the night, which is very abnormal for me. There are two main reasons.

Reason One: ISH 2, where I live, for some reason has rooms that resound noise like no room I've been in before. And I don't sleep well with noise. If my roommate wakes up, does anything, or leaves, I wake up. Dear Genevieve is often up very early on the phone or people knock on our door pre-7am. There's not a whole lot I can do about it unfortunately, but I do get tired a lot. I'm trying not to let it inhibit my ability to enjoy every moment...every last day. P.S. Sleeping in doesn't exist in this country. So, there are days when Genevieve isn't around that I go to bed at 8pm...oops!

Reason Two: I am incredibly uncomfortable in my bed. I sleep on a foam "mattress" with a pillow that I call "the rock" based on it's hard, lumpy, painful characteristics. Because I sleep on fluffy cloud heaven at home and here I sleep on hard rocky ground, I have developed quite severe knots in my neck. I toss and turn a lot trying to get comfortable, which wakes me up at night. However, I refuse to buy a new pillow at this point. I can suck it up.

Sorry this post was a bit complainy, I'm sure I'll feel more positive tomorrow. Thanks for reading!

What does Annica eat for dinner?

To answer your (my) question, most evenings, I venture into the Night Market which is conveniently located next to my Hostel. When we first arrived in Ghana we were advised to avoid eating there because of sanitation or something, but that is clearly a thing of the past. It is pretty much the only place I eat on campus. Because it has everything. Bananas, Oranges, Pineapple, Coconut Clumps, Groundnuts, Mango, etc. Rice, Yam, Fufu, Banku, Kenkey, Plantains, etc. Kebobs. Egg Sandwiches. And a pocket full of HOT sunshine (during the day at least). What more could you ask for?

So, every day/night, we go from stand to stand. We get our Kebobs from one guy, our fruit from another lady, water sachet/plastic bags from Maame Fante, yams or rice from another stand, etc. Sometimes my friends and I divide and conquer and then meet at a table behind the food stands.

This is the Night Market during the day. I LOVE IT. Maame Fante and Papa Fante make the best Egg Sandwiches (An omlette on bread basically). And they are the cutest people ever.

A Typical Dinner from the Night Market: Exhibit A
-Vegetable Kebob Grilled to Perfection (Ingredients: Zucchini, Green Pepper, Tomato, Onion, Powdered Peppe)
-Chicken Kebob Grilled to Perfection (Ingredients: Chicken, Powdered Peppe)
-Fried Yam Chips (Ingredients: Really Sharp Fried Yams That Kindof Taste Like French Fries But Not Really)
-Ketchup (I think I have a mild obsession with ketchup since I actually eat fried food here like I never do at home.)

A Typical Dinner from the Night Market: Exhibit B
-Vegetable Kebob
-Vegetable and Sausage Kebob (Self Explanatory Ingredients)
-White Rice
-Tomato Stew (Mushed Up Tomatoes, Palm Oil, Onion, Hot Pepper)

This is the guy who makes our kebobs. I think I eat them at least once a day. We are friends.

Sometimes the gals and I (Miranda and Grace) eat on my bed. Like this:

Other times, we eat in the Night Market. Where it is dark. And therefore, pictures do not turn out well at all.

Some nights, we get homemade vegetable pizzas or banana chocolate chip muffins from Auntie Louise. She brings food in a basket from home and sells them next to our hostel. Last night, she was wearing A CALVIN SHIRT. I almost peed. Apparently students from last year gave it to her.
Anica, Me, Auntie Louise, and Miranda

YUMM!

Silly Susans

I decided that I should try to write something on this blog every day (that I remember to do so). My time in Ghana is WAY to close to being over, so I will try to share little things with you while I'm still here.

Doing the"Miranda Face." (P.S. We are wearing clothes. They just both happen to be strapless.)

Today, I sat in our little classroom for four hours between classes with Miranda. We weren't planning on it...most people left because we had a class canceled (yay!). Miranda and I were supposed to have a drum lesson so we stayed in the room. However, that was canceled too so we ended up eating our tomato and Laughing Cow Cheese, and garlic salt sandwiches in the classroom and "playing" all afternoon. We took pictures on our laptops in Photobooth (something I haven't done for a while...) for a long time. We swapped music. We looked at pictures. We laughed. It was grand.

Pig. Owl.

This is how I feel about leaving Ghana in 4 weeks.

I Like Music

This coming week is our last week of classes. The week following that we have exams. I have 3 presentations, 3 papers, 5 written exams, and one oral exam, and 12 short response journals to start and finish within the next two weeks. Therefore, I feel motivated to distract myself by cleaning my room, painting, and writing on my blog!

I am obsessed with a few different songs at the moment. They are all local West African (Ghanaian and Nigerian) artists. Follow the links to hear them! Adults beware: I have not seen the videos because they won't load on my computer. They are probably inappropriate. But, if you close your eyes and listen to the song, maybe you can feel a little bit of the joy that I feel when I listen to these songs.

Simple by Bradez
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vhDsq29i04

Gongo Aso by 9ice
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edIwYLWp2j8

Fall in Love by D'Banj
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSfuK60HfMU

Hopefully they work!!

Love you all.

Annica

Map of Ghana

This is a map of Ghana. I live a few miles from Accra (red star) in a part of town called East Legon. We have taken trips to Cape Cost, Aburi (Botanical Gardens), Tamale, Yendi, Mole National Park, and Bolgatanga. Tomorrow we go to a town called Ho in the Volta Region (near Kpetoe on the map) and before I come home I will also go to Kumasi. My friends and I are planning on spending our Free Travel time in the South East corner of the country!

The North: Part Two

After spending time in Yendi, we drove a few hours west to Tamale (TAH-ma-lay). Throughout our time in Tamale (Wednesday, October 7-Saturday, October 10), we visited a number of Non-Governmental Organizations. The first was an NGO called GILLBT that works to translate the Bible into many of the local languages in Ghana. There are over 60 languages spoken in Ghana, and so far, the Bible is only fully translated into 10 of these languages. There are 23 New Testaments translated as well, and this NGO is working to translate the Bible into more and more languages! We also visited World Vision, CRS (Catholic Relief Services), and CCFC (Christian Children’s Fund of Canada). These three NGOs are all working at coordinating and funding similar programs including water sanitation and hygiene, heath (especially women’s health during and after pregnancy), micro enterprise (like B.I.R.D.S. in Yendi), agriculture, and education. These visits were all very interesting but left me with more to think about than I ever thought possible...

Development is something that I have been interested in for a long time but don’t know much about. No wonder there is a whole major devoted to the study of International Development—it is so complex! NGOs approach development in very different ways. Some go into communities with a Western agenda because they believe that they know better than the locals what is best for them. Others believe that development should begin in a community (grassroots development) with initial ideas that come from the local people. This way, the people have a say in want from development. This said, what is the objective of development? What is the best approach? Is it more meaningful for people from the community to lead development initiatives? What role do I have in international development as a Westerner? As a Christian? Should development go hand in hand with evangelism? Should it not?

I have a lot to say about World Vision. I had an unexpected, frustrating, and mind-opening experience. World Vision basically tells people they are giving a monthly contribution to one child when in reality (and in the fine print) they are giving the money to a whole community. At first, I felt pretty deceived by this marketing scheme. However, after being here it is very clear for numerous reasons that giving one child or one family money would not be beneficial for anyone. African culture is incredibly community oriented. Focusing on individual children or families would be problematic. Although using this marketing method World Vision procures the funds they need, it bothers me that it plays into the ignorance of the average Westerner. We write our monthly checks, not really knowing or caring about how our money is really being spent based on the community and cultural needs of the people. We feel good about ourselves for having a picture of a sad looking poor child on our fridges…but it rarely goes further or deeper than that. The desire to truly learn and know about the people who live like this in the world isn’t there. So much to think about!

In Tamale, we stayed in a place called T.I.C.C.S. It stands for Tamale Institute of Cross Cultural Studies. It is a place that educates people—especially foreign missionaries—about Ghanaian culture and languages. The institute offers classes and immersion programs to learn local languages. Through this immersion program after 2 months in a Dagomba village in Northern Ghana, participants have the vocabulary of an 8 year-old! Our conversations with the director who is Polish, studied in Rome, and has lived in Ghana forever were incredibly interesting. He gave us a lot of insight and information you may be interested in:

-8 out of 10 people in Northern Ghana live below the poverty line (on less than $1 per day). Hi. That’s a lot.
-32% of females and 65% of males go to elementary school in the North and the gap is widening. If a family can afford to send a child to school at all, they will almost always send a son before a daughter. Girls just get married young anyway and most don’t work outside the home at all—why pay to educate them?
-Fonio is delicious! It is a very tedious and difficult to harvest food crop which is only found in Northern Ghana. It’s a lot like cream of wheat or oatmeal and is usually eaten for breakfast. It is called “The Hungry Man’s Food” because it lasts up to 12 years when stored in a cloth. Nothing spoils or eats it!

Our favorite part about staying at T.I.C.C.S. was the Jungle Bar. You heard me, they have a Jungle Bar. Where we actually never drank. Ironic. The Jungle Bar is a tiny outdoor restaurant/bar with jungly furniture and jungly plants for decoration. It reminded me of Ecuador. They had good food and an incredible atmosphere for open-air, tropical, relaxed socializing. Wednesday, the first night we were in Tamale, Anica, Miranda, Grace and I had dinner in a somewhat secluded corner of the bar. While we were there, a Ghanaian guy about our age named FT came and sat by us. He asked us to teach him about ourselves and our insights after being in Ghana for a while. It turned into a great conversation and eventually his friends Iddrisu and Osman joined us. Anica went to bed early, but the six of us that were left had a very enjoyable evening talking with these guys.

FT, Iddrisu, and Osman are all in their early twenties and have all gone to technical school in Tamale. They had such unique views about marriage and women’s roles—they want their marriages to be about true love, respect, and sharing. They said that they hated that women have set expectations in the house: they are expected to cook, clean, and care for the children. This is troubling for these guys and they don’t want that kind of marriage. Iddrisu (who graduated from art school and may be the only vegetarian in Ghana) and Osman now work for a place that teaches drumming and dance (we found them in our Guide Book!). Apparently they (the instructors) also perform and are the best Dance Crew in Northern Ghana. They taught us some rhythms, which Miranda and I loved! We also played games with them, including BS, which they were horrible at. Those boys just couldn’t lie well! We made shadow puppets on the wall and laughed hard. It was so much fun that we made sure to plan on meeting up the next night.

The following evening, Thursday, we met in a gazebo near the Jungle Bar and they brought a bunch of drums with them. So for an hour or so, we played the drums together. Grace was the first one to get roped into dancing. After a while, we were all dancing together in this little gazebo—traditional African dances, salsa, dances made up on the spot, and silly children’s dances. This wonderful time of cultural exchange and fun is an experience I will never forget. The next night (after possibly the most touristy waste-of-a-day ever: driving 3 hours to sit on a crocodile and pretend to cross the border into Burkina Faso when we were really in "no man's land.") we met again for dinner and goodbyes. We were sad to leave Tamale. Our friends still call us every week and beg us to come back for a visit. Maybe next time I’m in Ghana. Iddrisu promised to mail me one of his paintings once I get home—I hope he does! I have come to the realization that I enjoy the company of artist/musician/thinkers.

On Saturday afternoon we drove to Mole (Moe-lay) National Park—a few hours west of Tamale. On the way, we stopped at the oldest mosque in Ghana (or in Africa? I can’t remember) in a town called Larabanga. It’s a really strange looking mosque.

We spent Saturday and Sunday at Mole. It is a huge National Park and besides the little motel, restaurant, and pool, it is completely uninhabited. It is so beautiful there!!! The pool overlooks a huge valley and we saw 15-20 elephants from up above. So cool. And there were tons of Pumbas (worthogs) right outside of our rooms. We went a long safari walk on Saturday during the heat of the day. Oh my WORD it was hot. The hottest it’s been so far…over a hundred for sure. We saw antelope, Rafiki (baboons), elephant footprints, and BEAUTY!

Sunday we had an amazing little church service with our group in one of our hotel rooms. The acoustics were breathtaking when we all sang together. In the afternoon, we swam in the pool because it was too hot to do anything else. Around 3:30 seven of us rode in the back of a pick-up truck for a driving safari. It was so gorgeous!! And sort of like a roller coaster. I stood up most of the time. This added to the adventure and kept the Tsese Flies from biting my entire body. Those little things are vicious. After the safari, I had an incredible dinner: mashed yams (like mashed potatoes) and a whole grilled tilapia. It was so good. It was really nice to have some reflection/relaxation/vacation time to conclude this thought provoking trip. I loved Mole and want to go back there some day.

I’ll conclude with a quote from my journal:

"It seems that everything we saw and talked about this week was two-fold. There is good and bad going on in most situations—unhelpful and helpful, selfish and selfless, frustrating and encouraging, hopeless and hopeful, destructive and beautiful. I don’t know where or how to begin thinking about that. It seems that the only conclusion I can make from my experiences, insights, and education so far on this semester program is that there is no conclusion. There is no human initiated grand scheme or way to fix it. How do I fit into that? What will this disorienting feeling feel like when I get home? What skills do I have to offer and be valuable in further the Kingdom of God? Is it God’s point that the only thing I have left to lean on for assurance is HIM?”

What an amazing week!

The North: Part One

This is for those of you who are eager. I'm trying to update as much as possible. I wrote 86 full pages my journal over the course of the week we spent in the North...haha. It's so hard to summarize this experience!

Monday to Monday, October 5-12, the Calvin group took a trip to the Northern Region of Ghana. The primary purpose of our trip was to study Development in the North. We stayed in Yendi (a small town) for three days, Tamale (a bigger town) for three days, and in Mole National Park for two days. Through conversations with important figures in the community, visits to NGOs, and time spent time with the people of the North, light was shed on issues I have never seen so close up. This trip was so full in every sense of the word: academically, experientially, emotionally, spiritually, and physically. The North is a place of unimaginable beauty and great need. I can’t wait to tell you about it!

Monday morning, the 5th, at 4:30am I awoke to my alarm clock, snuck out of the room, and got on the Institute of African Studies Bus to begin our day of travel to the North. I had been freaking out about this 12 hour bus for a while, thinking we would be throwing up all over each other. I somewhat forcefully convinced most people to take Dramamine—I came with a large supply. Because of this, most of us slept almost the whole ride. Whoops! We stopped every few hours—in Kumasi, Kintampo, and Tamale—to go to the bathroom. Rather than Rest Stops with flushing toilets, sinks with soap, vending machines and maps, our stops were in markets with street vendors and bathroom facilities that were basically private-ish cement “enclosures” with holes in the cement slab on the floor. Painted on the cement half-walls are pictures of males or females and the simple command to “urinate here.” Let’s just say I far prefer the woods. We arrived at our destination, Yendi, exactly 12 hours (quite a long trip for only covering 435 miles…) after we left Accra. Everyone was healthy the whole trip! Yay!

There is a definite climate and landscape change from southern Ghana to northern Ghana. It was at least 95-100 degrees F most of the time we were in the North (and has been about 85 degrees F average in Accra). One day it rained and was much cooler, but the rest of the days we sweat like crazy! The North is so beautiful. Part of the reason you notice it so much more than the South is because the North is predominantly rural (the South has many more urban areas than the North). With fewer cities and more uninhabited landscape, the beauty is so much more noticeable. Little villages line the road. I love the little structures that make up the villages.


The huts are circular, mud-walled, and have grassy thatched roofs. I have been having a hard time truly grasping the poverty I know exists in The North has high grasses that blow in the wind and the landscape is peppered with much shorter trees than the south. Everything is lush since it’s the end of the rainy season. The sky is majestic and beautifully blue with a gazillion fluffy clouds. It reminded me of a Michigan summer sky. Lovely. Oh! The stars were the best I’ve seen here thus far. Not much city light to spoil the gorgeous night sky. Being in a much more rustic, natural place was such a blessing. I was getting sick of the city complete with it’s exhaust, sewage, and pollution.

The three days we spent in Yendi, a small town 2 hours East of Tamale, were wonderful. We started off our time there visiting a small grassroots NGO called B.I.R.D.S. (Bang-Gu-Manga Integrated Rural Development Society). The NGO works with the local community and primarily focuses on empowering women through micro enterprise. That day and the next we visited some of the places where these women work. At one Women’s Group, the women pick, process, and produce Shea Butter. Mommy I bought you a blob of it for 5 pesewas (3 cents ☺).

The women let me try forming the shea butter into the correct shape/blob. It was difficult to form them as perfectly as the women do, but the art major in me enjoyed it!

The women told us that their goal is to expand the business but they don’t have the capital to expand. Another Women’s Group processes local rice—which used to be a main export in Ghana. Now, rice (which is a staple food here) is 60-70% imported which is very sad since Ghana has the raw resources to provide all the rice they need. It was very interesting to hear the NGO talk about their mission and then see it in action.

We visited one of seven female chiefs (out of the bazillion male chiefs) in Ghana in a village called Gundoyu. She doesn’t speak English so we had a translator with us while sitting in her “resting” hut. It was crowded and fly-filled and so hot. However, it was such a cool experience and I felt like I was in a documentary. This chief has been doing a lot to develop her village, especially in the area of getting young girls to go to school. This is a major problem in the North (and in Ghana in general) because women are expected to marry very young for the primary purpose of reproduction and caring for her family. School is not a priority for young girls especially in rural areas.

Inside the hut at Gundoyu with the Female Chief on the left in the blue. Her name is Gundo-Naa.

We also visited the Tindang Witches Camp in Yendi. This was a highlight of the trip to the North and I won’t be able to express what this experience was like. In Ghana, witchcraft is real and almost everyone believes that witchcraft is used (almost always by women) from time to time to cause other people harm/death. If a woman is accused of using witchcraft (whether it was by her choice or because it “came upon her”) she is basically banned from her village. To be excommunicated is the absolute biggest tragedy in African culture. Your family and your community mean everything and if that is taken from you, you are left with nothing. These women have nowhere to go, so witches camps were set up to house them and keep them safe. The camp we went to is more or less a rural village with many women between the ages of 35 and 95. There are also many children (children and grandchildren of the accused witches) who live at the witch camp as well. They were the first people we saw upon arrival! Amy and Naomi saved us by pulling out chocolate and Hello Kitty stickers to give to the kids. A lot of the kids didn’t have shirts, so we stuck stickers right on their bellies. It was really cute. After a few minutes getting comfortable with each other, we were all playing games, holding hands, laughing, and smiling. At one point, Grace had at least ten kids holding her hands! [Side Note: At first glance, I could tell the kids had a lot of physical ailments. Some had enlarged/swollen bellies, abnormally large protruding bellybuttons, sores on their legs, ringworm on their faces, warts and sores on their mouths, and most had coughs. I had a moment where I wondered if I should fear being in contact with them. But some gut feeling took over. I felt like God spoke to me and told me that it was more important to show these small children that I loved them than to worry about contagious coughs. So I did. I put my anxiety aside and loved the children—God’s children—the best that I could in the few hours I was with them.]

Me with my favorite little girl at the witches camp!

We walked for a while with the kids to a different part of the village. I loved this because not only were we seeing people’s huts up close and personal, but I was holding hands with adorable children, singing a song we learned in dance class called “Senowa, de de de, senowa. Senowa, de de de, senowa.” The kids caught on quickly and we were all singing this simple, catchy song in a language neither of us understood. It was beautiful! We eventually walked upon a clearing between the huts where all the accused women were sitting to have a conversation with us. Grace and I were pretty distracted because we had kids in our laps and crawling all over us. But, we heard from those who could hear better that all of the women were innocent of the witchcraft crimes they were accused of. They said that they do believe in witchcraft but that if they were actually witches, they would be dead at this point. Apparently, as soon as the women get to the camp, they are given a concoction that cures them of their “witchcraft” or kills them. So those that don’t die aren’t witches. The women said that despite the pain of being excommunicated, they know that they are safer here than they would be in their communities because of their reputation. They flee to the witches camp to have a safe place to live.

Some of the beautiful women in the witches camp.

It’s hard to describe what kind of impression this experience gave me. These women have lost everything because of deeply engrained cultural beliefs. There are plenty of people in Ghana who see that this whole situation is really horrible, but enough people fear witchcraft and don’t value these women’s rights enough that the scenario is perpetuated. It was absolutely heartbreaking. The women were so beautiful. The kids brought me unimaginable joy. The reality of their situation was just so unbelievable. I had a really hard time getting back on our bus and leaving that village. I left a part of my heart in Tindang.

On the hour long ride back from the witches camp, the sun set. Because of the rural area we were in, i.e. no civilization between the camp and our guesthouse, the stars out of the bus window were AMAZING. I have never ever seen such high contrast stars. I listened to “God of This City” by Chris Tomlin, stared out the window, and reflected on my experience that afternoon. The song fit perfectly…

You’re the light in this darkness
You’re the hope to the hopeless
You’re the peace to the restless
There is no one like our God
Greater things have yet to come
Greater things are still to be done
In this city

We have a calling in life. And that is to make this earth, the city on earth, more like God intended it to be. I am thankful we have a God to be our light, hope, and peace when the world seems bleak.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Odwira, Food, and Identity

Hi friends.

I’m sorry I’m so bad at keeping up with my blog. So much happens everyday and I get so overwhelmed and further and further behind, so catching up is a daunting task.

We spent September 15-19 (Tuesday through Saturday) in Akropong (an hour van ride from the University). Whoa, that was 2 weeks ago! We stayed, for the second time, at Akrofi Christaller Institute, which is a wonderful seminary. The last time we went to ACI was a “Welcome to Ghana” or Ghanaian Culture Retreat. This time, we went to observe a festival called Odwira that occurs annually and is very significant to the people of Akropong and surrounding areas.

We learned about different aspects of the Odwira festival (rituals and traditions) and then attended the events themselves. Sometimes we didn’t learn about a certain event until after we went to it. This was frustrating since people were speaking in Twi and performing traditional rituals that we couldn’t understand. So, at times, we had no idea what was going on.

Our week away was overwhelming and exhausting, but was also incredibly fascinating and exciting. I feel like I don’t have the energy to talk about details in a way that will convey anything you will understand ☺. No matter how in depth I go, there is not really a way that you will know what I’m talking about…so your impression will not be what it would be if you were here. I don’t mean that in a rude way, I just don’t want you to freak out about what I say. So much of my understanding of Odwira is built on the many days in the classroom, hours of conversation, and a month of living in this culture. There is so much behind this festival—culturally, historically, religiously—and words cannot convey what it was like. It’s just too big to write in a blog entry. I will try to tell you briefly about the festival and a few events that stood out to me (for obvious reasons, as you will soon see).

The word Odwira itself means “cleansing.” In the Twi translation of the Bible, the word Odwira is found in Hebrews 1:3—“Jesus cleansed our sins.” So, the short version of the purpose and meaning of the Odwira festival is that it is a festival the cleanses the people and the town. In the presence of Odosu, a very powerful deity, and the ancestors (who play an incredibly important role in Ghanaian society), the Odwira Festival brings cleansing to the people. There are number of different rituals, events, ceremonies, etc throughout the week that are loaded with meaning and significance to the people. We attended a lot of them.

This is the town of Akropong. People lined the streets to watch the Processional on Thursday. MTN is the phone service that I have. Phone companies have ads EVERYWHERE, including the sides of almost all buildings.

The first part about the festival that really stood out was the Processional on Thursday. Thursday is New Years Day for the Akan people (the ethnic group that the people of Akropong belong to). The processional is sort of reminiscent of a parade. It was a gorgeous sunny day and the people from the area stand and sit all along the road waiting for the action to pass them. The main thing that happens during the Processional is that women carry food to a place called The Mausoleum. The Mausoleum is a tree enclosed by four concrete walls. No one is allowed into those walls except the women who carry the food on this one particular day of the year. It is a significant spiritual honor to carry food to the ancestors—the women who carry often become possessed by the deity Odosu. This was an incredibly interesting thing to watch. If I had seen this processional the first day I had been here, I probably would have started crying and wanted to fly home. But, having been here seven weeks, this procession was exciting and with eyes wide open, I learned even more about the people I live with!

This is a woman carrying food to the ancestors. The men next to her keep her going in the right direction and from hurting people. At this point, she was not violently possessed but started running around shortly after I took this picture.

The second ritual that was a bit more overwhelming was the ritual on Friday that cleanses the Mpeni Tree. The Mpeni Tree is a specific tree that is located in front of the Paramount Chief’s Palace. It is HUGE and is not allowed to be touched. This tree has very significant spiritual power and is cleansed annually during this festival. To cleanse the tree, libation is poured to the ancestors, a sheep is sacrificed, and a new white cloth is placed around the tree that stays up until the following year. This cleansing is done by a family who are called the “Keepers of the Tree.” This was a pretty small ceremony and our group of fourteen made up about half of the crowd. Before the ritual began, one of the women who had carried food the previous day in the processional became possessed. Because she was two feet away from me, I’ll go ahead and say that a bit of fear came over me. She was a strong woman when possessed and three big men had trouble keeping her in one place. The spirit of the tree had come into her and communicated to the Keepers of the Tree that it (the tree) was angry. Apparently this year the tree was highly disrespected—touched, peed on, slept next to, the white cloth and a calabash were stolen, etc—and was not happy about it. The spirit wanted the ritual to be a bit different—or more extensive—than usual. So we experienced an interesting twist to this ritual. After the woman “settled down,” we all watched wide-eyed and queasy-stomached as a terrified sheep’s throat was slit and it’s blood poured all the way around the tree. My knees felt funny. The sheep didn’t die for a long time…too long. It was really hard to watch. Somehow though, the ritual in its entirety didn’t upset me nearly as much as I expected it to, and that is not because I am numb. It is because I am learning.

This is the white cloth, sheep head, and empty bottle of Schnapps (for libations) at the foot of the Mpeni Tree.

Christians that observe Odwira or are from Akropong find it difficult to find their identity within the Festival (especially because of things like sacrifice and possession). Because the cleansing that occurs during Odwira is a Traditional Religion and is not through Jesus, many Christians don’t like Odwira. Some Christians choose to think of the festival as simply a reminder of Christ’s all-encompassing cleansing of our sins. The Ghanaian woman that taught us all about Odwira seemed herself to be very confused about the discrepancy between her culture/heritage/history/ancestors and what Christians are “supposed” to think about Odwira. This aspect alone raised about seventeen million questions in my mind. So much to process!

When we got back from Odwira, I for some reason had a hard week. I felt okay physically (well, I’m never completely normal, but not too bad), but emotionally and mentally, I felt so weird. I was homesick. For my parents and my sister, for my friends, for Grand Rapids, for Fall, for Thursday night Office Parties, for Saturday morning Farmers Market, for work, for easy access to a place to paint, for FOOD…

Last week Monday (the 21st) was a National Holiday to celebrate the day that Kwame Nkrumah (Ghana’s first president after Colonial Rule) would have been 100 years old. To celebrate, a few of us went to a nearby outdoor resort-like pool/hotel and I spent the day getting tan and pretending to be in Florida with my family. I ate hummus and pita and pizza. After that, I went through about a week of grumpiness and fantasy over foods that I wished I could eat. This lead to going out of my way to not eat normal Ghanaian food and to fill myself with foods that at least minimally reminded me of home. The pool started the snowball effect that continued for a week: I ate avocado and cheese sandwiches, pizza, ice cream, cheesecake, a latte, TONS of chocolate chip cookies, made bruschetta and pasta one night, Snickers bars (well, chocolate of any time), an orange float, jelly on bread, peanut butter and nutella, the list goes on… I even called my dad and told him to send me EasyMac in the mail (not realizing it would be confiscated by customs anyway). I never even eat EasyMac at home! Our entire group went “out out” for the first time to a bar called Champs. It felt way too much like a bar at home. But it was fun and felt like home to eat a delicious burrito with guacamole, drink Long Island Iced Tea, and sing Karaoke. Without further detail, let’s just say our group deeeeeefinitely bonded that night!

Today was one of the first days that I felt like eating Ghanaian food again, and I enjoyed it! Groundnut soup with Garden Eggs tasted lovely. That’s good.

I have also been reflecting the last few days on how being here has made me feel like I’m having an identity crisis. So many parts of my identity are at home…people, places, things…and it’s hard to figure out what is left of me and who I am. We read an excerpt from Shauna Niequist’s book Cold Tangerines today about her study abroad experience. She says about being abroad in England for a semester: “They were the days. They were singularly beautiful, terrible days. In some ways, I was never more myself, and in others, never more unrecognizable.” This is freakishly true. At times, I feel misunderstood. Like I’m trying to be myself but failing at it. The people we debrief life with are an expensive phone call away and it feels so far. There is a real beauty in getting to know a group of people in this way, but in some ways it is also really hard to not have people who have known me a while (or forever) be here to hug me. Based on recent conversations with friends here, a lot of us feel this way some degree. I know that this is part of the experience—figuring out who I really am without the people, places, and things that I thought made me who I was. I heard this would happen but had no idea how it would feel or what it would look like. And I’m sure this isn’t the end…

Shauna Niequist also says: “We were young American travelers, stumbling and crashing through [Ghana], falling in and out of love with it, with one another, with ourselves.” This too couldn’t be more true. (Except I’m not falling in love with anyone…haha.) I have seen in the past week this back and forth feeling of falling in and out of love with Ghana. There are days all I want is to sit in my front yard in my hammock talking to Katie Pals who loves me no matter what. Then there are other days when the thought that next week marks the half-way point in our trip makes me want to cry because I can’t bear the thought of leaving this place and these people.

This is getting long. I’m sorry that it’s so hard to put up pictures. I’m going into the Northern Region (“going North” as it is said commonly) this coming Monday. The Northern region is predominantly Muslim, and is much more impoverished and rural than anywhere we have yet been. We are going to learn more about the Muslim community, visit some villages and witches camps, step across the border into Burkina Faso, sit on a crocodile, do a safari ride, and visit a lot of NGOs. I’m really looking forward to the trip (Not the 12 hour car ride on bumpy roads. Pray for health and safety for our group!) I’ll do my best to blog about it soon after…I have a feeling I will, yet again, have a million things to say.

Thanks for reading this!

Love, Annica

P.S. I should have brought Ugly. I miss him.

Pictures!

This is my family in Ghana: Rachel Victor, Miranda DeVries, Chelsea Parr, Me, Grace DeBoer, and Anica Jeremie. Stalk them on facebook :)
Shia Hills. This place was breathtaking. I could have stayed on this rock for hours...
Cedi Beads, a company that makes jewelry from recycled glass. So cool to see the process and the product!
This is a gorgeous view from Elmina Castle. Daddy, I hope you appreciate this. Doesn't the water look like the Galapagos?
Amy, Rachel, Random Guy, Naomi, Chelsea, Grace, Anica, and Me at a local radio station in Ga East (part of Greater Accra).
A picture I love. This is at the top of a hike we took to Umbrella Rock (near Boti Falls). Double click on it to get the full depth of this wonderful, colorful sight! (Note: Paa Kwesi, the little boy in blue, is one of my favorite people in Ghana!)

Cape Coast and Illness...

Hi everyone!!

Hold your horses, I have so much to catch you up on!!

We went to Cape Coast last week Friday-Saturday (a town right on the ocean). Friday we went to Cape Coast Castle and Elmina Castle (both are slave castles where slaves were kept for months before getting on slave ships to the Americas) followed by some cloudy time at a beautiful beach called Brenu Beach. The beach was relaxing and a good place to reflect. The whole time I was at the slave castles, I wanted my parents to be there with me. It was so powerful being there, standing on the dungeon floors where people suffered worse than I can even imagine and many died. To think the smell of misery (months of hundreds of people's bodily waste and tears) is still in the floors. So many questions/feelings/thoughts ran through my head all day. I felt small and almost crippled by the realities of history that day. In both castles, there is a CHURCH directly above the dungeons where human beings were moaning and weeping...just unbelievable. I also was struck by the dichotomy of how thecastles are in such a beautiful place. Standing nearthe canons in the castle the ocean, the breeze, the bright sun, the
castle itself is gorgeous...and below my feet such horror took place. Ah, I just can't shake that off. And I shouldn't. I just wish everyone from home could have stood there, heard what I heard, learned what I learned, and seen what I saw. It was pretty cool to know that Obama and Michelle were here a few months ago too :)

Saturday, we went on the Kakum canopy walk. It is a walk on metal/rope walk ways 120 feet above the ground through a canopy. I wish it had been longer but it was beautiful. The forest reminded me of Ecuadorian jungle. Later in the afternoon we went to the Fetu festival in Cape Coast. There were a gazillion people watching and participating in a big parade. I kept thinking "this is like the 4th of July on crack!" The people and the energy and the colors took my breath away--I took a lot of pictures I'm really proud of. I'll try to attach a few...I don't know if it will work though...

Sunday we went to a football (soccer) game here in Accra. It was so high energy and colorful too. Like so many things here :) Ah! I had so much Ghana pride. The Ghana Black Stars (referencing the flag) beat Sudan in the Qualifier Match for the World Cup next year. YAY!

So...for the illness...
I was in the local clinic Tuesday morning around 6am after what I like to call "the night from hell." All of a sudden around 11:30pm Monday night I felt funny...then I felt awful. And spend the entire night in the bathroom in dear old ISH2. Literally, I was on the toilet with diarrhea and a puke bucket in front of me from midnight until 6am. Sorry for the gruesome details, but I figured I'd just tell it like it is. Oh, I should mention too that I have not thrown up in ten years...so doing it by myself and not even remembering how awful it really feels was not my idea of fun! Finally Professor Hugen took me to the clinic. I had blood/stool/urine tests done and it ends up I had a really severe infection. Bacteria and amoeba all over my tummy--probably from food, said the very nice doctor who was the only good part about that morning. He prescribed me a couple antibiotics (which for the last few days have made my mouth taste like metal...yuck!) but I didn't have to stay in the clinic which is good. It is now Thursday night and I am finally perking up!

Funny part (ok, not funny) about that story is that when I got home from the clinic, I heard that Grace DeBoer (from our Calvin group) had been throwing up some of the night too...though we never crossed paths in the bathroom. I did switch bathrooms a few times so apparently we
just missed each other. But, she basically had the exact same thing as me. Miranda DeVries (another from the group) had also gotten really bad diarrhea in the early morning and Anica Jeremie (yet another from the group) was starting to feel really awful (and eventually had
diarreah/vomitting just as bad as the rest of us). We thought that was strange...because we are all really good friends. We finally figured out that the common food we ate was from some of the nicest restaurants around: We had gone out for dinner together on Sunday night (after the Football game) to Papaye (cheeseburgers!!--yes, I, the vegetarian, fully enjoyed my cheeseburger) in Osu and had very expensive ice cream at Frankie's afterwards. We finally pieced it all together when I got to my room and learned that my roommate Genevieve threw up right after I left for the clinic. She, too, had gone to Frankie's after the game. Her sister (who lives somewhere else) was also sick and had gone to Frankie's. So, in conclusion, Genevieve is calling a radio station because she said it is the most effective way for people to find out
things like this. And we are all so mad because that chocolate/vanilla twist ice cream cone was the best thing I've ever tasted!!! It's a good thing I don't (and hopefully never will) associate ice cream with illness.

So, Tuesday was spent in my room with all four of the "sickies" and "nurse" Rachel Victor (a girl from our group who is a woman of God for taking care of us all day). Everyone else's roommates were cooking food that made us all want to puke (and some of us did) and my roommate was home since she was sick too. So my room was the hospital for the day (and Wednesday too since we all could still barely move...so achy!!). We are all much better today (Thursday), finally eating/drinking comfortably again. It's really strange to think that I would be able to fit everything I have eaten/drank in 2 days in a quart sized bag...

This experience, though I would wish it on no one, really brought our little group together. I am so glad it happened with the girls I did. We were closest to each other before this, but now, after taking care of each other--being each other's family when our own families weren't there--is a gift from God. I miss my parents a lot right now. I've talked to them a fair amount over the past few days, and there are so many moments I wish they were here with me (like when I'm puking and crying...lol). My mom has been a God-send the last few days. She has basically been our doctor from afar: giving us good advice, researching meds, and telling us what to take and eat. She took a lot of time out of her day to help us. She has seriously been such a comfort and support--those of you that know her know how wonderful she is. I LOVE HER! The other girls told their parents how helpful my mom has been. Grace's mom asked where my mom lives so she could go hug her! Uh, I'm so blessed. Thanks mommy (and daddy for supporting me too and marrying her).

It was realllllllly nice to only have 2 days of class (that I actually went to) this week though. We only one day of class next week too. Welcome to the good life huh? We go to Akropong for the Odwira Festival on Tuesday until Saturday. Should be really good.

OH!!! I GOT MY DRUM TODAY! I ordered it last week from the Drum Master who is our instructor. I feel like I'm really getting the whole djembe thing down. WOO! Miranda DeVries (who also got a drum today) and I like to jam on tables and our thighs to keep the rhythms in our heads all week!

So, to conclude:
1. I have a little family here in Ghana. I am forever grateful for their love, company, and servant hearts. Chelsea greets us often (in her cute little voice) with out-stretched arms "Family!"
2. I miss my family at home.
3. I can't believe I've already been here 1/4 of our time!!! AH! Some days I never want to leave. Other days I miss people and Easy Mac but I'll give up the Easy Mac and have everyone just come here instead. Ok? Ok. Now go buy your tickets.

I WANT TO SHOW YOU PICTURES. BUT INTERNET IS SO POOPY THAT I NEVER CANNNNNNN. GR!

Love (a much healthier than 2 days ago),

Annica

How do I sum up the last 2 weeks?! I'll just try to break it down into bullet points :)

Trips: We spent 3 days (2 nights) in a small town called Akropong not last weekend but the weekend before. It was both relaxing and overwhelming. We learned SO MUCH new information through lectures and experience...about culture here, gender roles, language, spirituality. At that point, everything was so overwhelming that I felt really emotional much of the time. Since then, things are not so new and I have had more time to piece things together and not feel so bombarded by newness. On Friday we are going to Cape Coast to visit the slave castles and do a canopy walk. I'm really excited to take a nice air conditioned bus instead of little tro tros (rickety vans that are basically really cheap--as in less that a quarter to go a long way--taxi/buses) that make me carsick.

Classes: Class started last week Monday (so we are in our second week of classes). I am taking West African Literature; West African Politics and Development; Ghanaian Religion, Family and Human Services; Twi (the most widely spoken language in Ghana); African Drumming; African Dance; and Ghanaian Peoples and Cultures. We meet in a little room with a long table in the middle and our professors come to us. There has been a lot of good overlap in the different classes which has made getting a full picture of culture and history really exciting. I feel like I'm REALLY learning and grasping things because it is coming from so many different angles. You learn it in one class, it is mentioned in another, you see it when you walk back from class, your roommate explains it to you once you get back to your Hostel...THIS is the way to learn something so that is sticks :)

Living: I live in ISH2 (International Student Hostel II) and so far, it is going very well. My roommate finally moved in for good and she is so wonderful! Her name is Genevieve and she is such a respectful and sweet roommate. She took care of me while I was sick--went out and bought me Coke because she said it would settle my stomach :) It sounded awful but I drank it anyway :) We have had some great conversations and laughs. She's so pretty and I'll have to show you a picture of her soon! Genevieve's mom and my mom both turned 50 on August 28. SO GREAT! We had a moment laughing about that. She loves watching movies and does so almost every night. The Ghanaian way to relax I suppose!

Weather: It has not been THAT hot here yet. It's always warm and when the sun comes out, it burns. But, often it is slightly overcast for at least part of every day, which gives Ghana a break from the sun. Sometimes there is misty rain--like you are standing in line for a roller coaster. I haven't been uncomfortably hot that many times, but it is really humid. My hair does not cooperate here. And today I kindof missed my Chi :) I've heard that we needn't worry though--the sun WILL make its appearance and make us miserable eventually :)

Food: Ghana likes rice and chicken. It is definitely the staple here. We ate a lot of rice (I especially like jollof rice...it is seasoned with who knows what and is much better than fried rice or plain rice) the first few weeks and just recently have started venturing out. I had a local dish called fufu last week. It is a pounded dough that is plopped in a HUGE bowl of soup or stew (I had mine with big pieces of goat meat and "light goat soup") and is eaten with your hands (Just your right hand actually. It is culturally insensitive to do much with your left hand.) Then I got really sick for about five days and have just started feeling better. A few days ago, my roommate Genevieve took me to the Night Market (a market RIGHT outside our Hostel) to try some new foods. [We go there all the time for bananas, mango, toilet paper, cookies, juice, clothes hangers, bread, etc. However, we have been avoiding buying hot food (they sell all kinds of rice, skewers, local foods like fufu, noodles, etc.) at the Night Market for the first few weeks (for the sake of our tummies getting used to food here), but it is time to start eating there. It's very cheap (less than a dollar for a good meal) and so convenient.] Anyway, we got "bread and egg" which is basically a thin, yummy omlet with green pepper and onion (Yay! There are not many vegetables here!) on tea bread (which is like heaven to me!). Like a sandwhich. Made right in front of you. SO GOOD. Oh, there is also a little restaurant inside our hostel--open air and a great place to socialize--called Tasty Treats. They have cheap little omlettes, waffles, tea, coffee, and lunch/dinner food too. Some of our group almost always meets there for a light breakfast before class. It's a nice place to fall back on if we don't feel like walking to get our food.

Daily Life: It's really fun/interesting how the things that take up most of my time are figuring out how to get from place to place, where/what to eat, when to fit in washing my clothes by hand and giving them time to dry on the line, taking a shower not knowing if the water will be turned off in an hour, buying enough water/toilet paper so you don't run out...basic survival kind of things :) It has not been stressful at all--having to do things differently, that is--in fact, it has slowed me down in the best way. Putting effort into everyday activities has somehow helped me to find beauty in the process. Walking fifteen minutes to get dinner encourages conversation or comfortable silence. Washing clothes builds community...some of our best conversations with Calvin students, roommates, and new friends have been while scrubbing underwear. Sounds lofty, but it's true. I feel relaxed...not rushing from place to place is WONDERFUL. I hope I can take that back with me...

Final thoughts: Thanks for loving me from afar! I love you all so much and think of you often. Many of you must know that your faces are hanging by my bed in photographic format :)
--David Benjamin: I have especially been thinking about you since the hard news about Josh and settling into life in Portland with the boys (Hi Greggy and Atti!).
--CICW: I have also been thinking lots about all of you during this transition period into the new semester. Cindy, I love you and pray for you every day. Thank you for being an incredible influence in my life--like a second mom. I pray the MRI was clear and that surgery goes smoothly. God is in control! Thanks to Eric and Calvin for keeping me updated...I wish I could hug all of you. How is little Nathaniel and new office spaces? I feel like I am always talking about you...there's a group of people here who probably feel like they know you all by now :)
--Woodlawn and friends: I've been thinking of you lots as well! People moving in (Melissawoo) and out (Katiedear), Melissa doing orientation, basement girls getting ready for Africa (!!!!), classes starting at many different schools (Jonelle, Lorr, Mikey, Katie)... OH BABY. So much going on!! I LOVE YOU ALL AND EVERYONE HERE KNOWS HOW WONDERFUL AND BEAUTIFUL YOU ALL ARE. Your faces come up in conversation and in pictures often :)

More later (with pictures hopefully). I LOVE THIS PLACE. And all of you.

Annica

Obviously, I am in Ghana! I have been in good spirits and not too overwhelmed thus far since I stepped off the plane. I was absolutely exhausted when I arrived...flying from Scotland on Monday and not sleeping for 24 hours straight then attempting sleep Monday night, without much success, and having too many amazing people at my house and way too much going through my head Tuesday night meant I did not sleep well for about 3 days straight. Something I am definitely not used to :) I also couldn't sleep well on the plane from Detroit to Frankfurt or from Frankfurt to Accra. My body was miserable for those hours. But, as soon as we got off the plane, I had a BIG smile on my face. My very first impressions of Ghana were that the mildly cool (I know, crazy) breeze that blew on my face as I walked down the steps from the plane smelled so good. A little bit tropical, a little bit like warm dust (like the smell of the dust at SMR, those that know what that smells like). People were kind from the start, helping with bags, greeting with smiles, etc. We met the mayor of Ga East at the airport and heard "Akwaaba Ghana" (Welcome to Ghana) over and over!

When we got to the University of Ghana (10-15 minutes from the airport), it took a bit to get our room assignments. I live on the ground floor of the International Student Hostel # 2. My door opens onto a beautiful courtyard and I have a great view from my back porch. I can see lots of grass and a tree and the Night Market (a little market that sells food, goods, etc.)! I didn't have a roommate yet at that point, but more about that in a bit! When we arrived that first night I literally ate some spicy rice and chicken that our professor got for us, took a fast cold shower (you have no choice...), found my sheets and mosquito net, wadded up a sweatshirt since I didn't have a pillow, and fell asleep around 8:30pm Ghana time which was about 4:30pm US time! I slept SO WELL. Finally.

We had an early start Friday morning...8am. This was our day to figure out where everything is...Where do I go to class? Where can I eat? Where can I find toiletries, etc? Where should I avoid? The basics...

Walking around in a group of 12 Americans makes you stick out like a sore thumb (I don't even know what that phrase means)...a feeling I'm getting used to but is still strange. I have found myself intimidated by large groups of Ghanaians, but as we learned in a culture shock lecture yesterday, usually Ghanaians are just as intimidated by a group of white people as you are of them. This helps put things into perspective and makes it easier to hold your head high, smile, and say hello.

Saturday we had some orientation to the University...learning about lot of things we had already heard or that did not apply to us (registration, examinations, etc.). So, after lunch, though we were supposed to stay at orientation until 4, our whole group decided to be rebels and go exploring. Our professor hasn't been around much, which has been nice because I think we feel more independent and brave without him around. We walked all over the campus (which is huge by the way and has a number of markets and people/houses that are not connected to the University) with our eyes wide open, taking it all in. We tried new foods, bought hangers and pillows, and met a few people along the way. I relaxed and hung out with some Calvin friends (yes, we really are all friends already :) before going together to dinner at Tacobell which is not a Taco Bell. And it is expensive for our standards now (3 cedis for a huge meal...which is about $2.50.). I relaxed again in the evening, showered, and slept well again!

Sunday morning, the group got up early to go to church. We went to the Legon Interdenominational Church this morning and I LOVED it. I thought of all of you (friends, family, CICW people I work with) and wished that you all could experience services like this. So colorful...tons of welcoming handshakes...lots of variety...memorized scripture readings by children...songs that had rhythm and flavor :) So great. The service brought tears to my eyes, it was so moving. After lunch (my 5th meal of rice and chicken), we walked back to ISH (where we live) and I spent the afternoon painting. It was marvelous!! I tacked a small piece of canvas to the flat surface of my desk (which is really crappy already mom, don't worry I'm not ruining it) to "stretch" it and then gessoed it with the teeny can of house paint I brought. After that dried, I painting for a long time...time got away from me, and before I knew it, it was time for dinner. That is the best feeling, I tell ya. A few of us walked to Tyme Out for dinner which is the place to be! Clubbing music is pumping loudly and the air is full of energy. AND THEY SERVE VEGETABLES!!! You have no idea how much I miss eating veggies already...so many carbs and nothing else :)

Our group is definitely bonding. Since Professor Hugen hasn't really been around, we dont' know him at all yet but we know each other so well. Sunday night a bunch of us (almost all of us, actually) hung out in my room for a few hours before bed. It was so fun, like vacation! This group is really great. I am feeling socially energized at this point which was definitely one of the things I was worried about. I don't know why I'm so surprised that everyone is quality :)

Today we waited around about 5 hours to figure out our registration, ID cards, etc for the University...we gave up eventually. It's the Ghanaian way apparently. Everything takes forever. In the afternoon we took tro-tros (Tro tros are super rickety 12 passenger vans that are crammed full of people but only cost about 15 cents to go a long way. It is the most organized chaotic thing I've ever seen. So many hand symbols and understood ways of doing things...so foreign to us though!) in groups of 3 to the Medina Market. We exchanged money at the market and bought pre-pay cell phones (while chickens ran past us on the dirt) to keep in touch with each other, roommates, text home (maybe?!), and call (though that will be expensive, so don't count on it). Then, daddy, I had fish and chips for dinner. We are splurging already on Americany food. Though I'm not sick of the food here by any means (in fact, I may be one of the least sick of it), it was nice to mix it up a bit. That brings me to now!

Other quick random things: I feel like I'm learning things all the time. I bought a little hot pot at the Bush Canteen on Saturday for 3 cedis and made loose leaf tea last night and coffee this morning in my french press to-go mug. What else? I love the red dirt. It hasn't been that hot yet except for a few hours yesterday and today, though I'm sure it will get hotter! The reservoir that gives us running water dries up at the end of the week aparently, so Saturday and Sunday often bring with them toilets that turn DISGUSTING and no showers. Rough, and something I'll have to get used to!! Yuck!

LOVE YOU ALL!!!!

Annica